General care information
Owning a chinchilla can be a lot of fun but owning a exotic pet is a huge learning experience. There is plenty of misinformation about chinchillas available on the internet. I am more than happy to help with any questions you might have on chins.
Chinchilla Care Packet
Thank you for getting your new chinchilla from BLS chins and guinea pigs. If you have any problems or questions along the way please feel free to reach out.
If for any reason you are no longer able to care for your chin, let us know. We are always willing to take in any chins (weather you got it from us or not).
Housing/cage set up
Temperature- Chinchillas need to be kept in temps 72 F or less. Anything warmer can lead to heat stroke which can quickly become deadly or have long term health effects. Air conditioning is a must if you have a chinchilla since fans do not cool them due to their thick fur.
Bedding-Kiln dried aspen or pine shavings are both safe to us in your chins cage. Fleece can also be used if other textures are used in the cage to prevent soft feet. Fleece bedding must also be changed frequently to prevent bacteria growth/odor. Carefresh and other paper beddings are not safe and are commonly known to cause blockages. Never use cedar bedding. The oil will cause skin irritation and eventually organ failure.
Water bottle- Since chins chew everything, I advise a glass water bottle. The bottle should be hung in the cage so that the chin can reach it to drink with all 4 feet on the floor. A water bowl is not advised since they are often spilled during your chin playing in the cage, or they become contaminated quickly with poop/shavings.
Food bowl- The best food bowls are chew proof. Ceramic is a good choice since its heavy, can not be chewed, can easily be cleaned and comes in a bunch of fun designs. Ceramic bowls should be placed low in the cage so they are not broken and don’t injure your chin should they tip it over. Another good option is a metal feeder. Coup cups are normally found in the bird section at most stores. J feeders is a third choice often found for rabbits.
Cage- A cage should be large enough for the chin to hop around comfortably. An all metal/wire cage is best. This allows for proper air flow, can be sanitized, and your chin can not chew out. The cage should be free of plastic (this includes the pan, shelves, ramp or other accessories). Plastic can cause major gut issues, blockages or even death. The minimum size for one chin is 18-24 inches high, 15-30 inches wide, and at least 12 inches deep. Anything larger is great but not necessary. Be aware that any fall 18 inches or higher may cause serious injury to your chin so accessories must be used to prevent any fall risks. The cage floor can be solid or wire mesh. Wire flooring that is ½ inch spacing or less is safe, just be sure to clean it as part of your routine. Your chins cage should be placed out of direct sunlight to reduce the chance of overheating. Please note that your chin can never be caged outside for any reason.
Cage accessories- Accessories must be made of safe materials. This means chin safe wood, fleece, metal or wire. Anything made with plywood, unknown wood type, paint, plastic, rope, or other cloth than fleece; are not safe to be used in your chins cage.
Feed
Pellets- Your chinchilla is currently being fed a bulk version of Oxbow essentials. This is commonly found at most pet stores. If you decide to switch to another pellet; mazuri, Sherwood, and Science Selective are all healthy options. A small bag of pellets will be sent along with your chin. This will allow you to mix to help change over to a new pellet. When changing feeds, you should mis 25% new pellets the first week, 50% new pellets the second week, 75 % the third week and all new pellets the 4th week. Most chins will adjust over just fine but if you notice any soft poops back up a step and proceed the switch a bit slower.
I do not advise using anything from the following brands-Kaytee, Vitakraft, Charlie chinchilla. They are known to make/sell unsafe items.
NEVER feed your chin nuts, seeds, fruits or veggies. These are high in natural sugars (even when they are dried) and fats. Both of which chins do not process well. The excess fats in the diet will lead to organ failure. Sugars in the diet can cause diabetes, bloat, diarrhea, stasis, and prolapse. Feeding fruits, nuts, seeds, veggies, ext will greatly shorten the life span. Your chin will thrive best on a bland diet of hay and pellets.
Hay- Hay comes in many safe types such as timothy, orchard grass, Bermuda and alfalfa. All of these are safe to give and are healthy for your chin. Oxbow or small pet selects are good brands that often have good quality. When looking for hay, you want it to be green/not brown, should have a slightly sweet smell to it, and be free from mold. Kaytee hay is often dyed to look green and is quite dusty. Hay should be plain with no herbs or treats added. Hay offers enrichment for your chin since they play with it as much as they eat. It also helps to wear down their teeth which is important due to their ever growing teeth. I advise offering a handful 1-2 times a week. Free or daily hay usually leads to the chin becoming bored and eating less. Hay cubes can also be used. I advise waiting until 6 months of age before offering hay as the small amount of sugars can still cause GI upset in sensitive individuals.
Water- Fresh clean water is important. Water bottles should be clean regularly to prevent bacteria. Any water that is safe for you is safe for your chin. I use reverse osmosis filtered water. Do not use distilled water. It removes all trace minerals that are needed for proper health.
Treats- Chinchillas 6 months of age and under cannot have treats of any kind. Most treats sold at pet stores are not safe, even if they are labeled for chins. I advise offering a more natural option for treats; herbs. There are a bunch of safe herbs that can be given safely. Remember that treats need to be given sparingly and in very limited quantities.
Care
Dust baths- Chinchillas need dust baths to clean their fur. The dust binds with the oils and dirt, removing them from your chin. Safe dusts include sweet pdz powder, chill dust and blue sparkle (sold under several names). Dust baths can be given 1-3 times a week as needed. Never bathe your chin with water. Their dense fur makes it very difficult for them to dry, can cause hypothermia, and will encourage fungal infections.
Chewing- Chinchillas are compulsive chewers so anything in their reach must be safe for them. Do not allow contact with electrical cords, plastic, paint, rope, chemicals, other pets, ext.
Exercise- Playtime is optional and should be offered only if it can be done safely. Playtime cannot be offered to chins 6 months of age or younger. They do not regulate body temp or blood sugars well until they mature. Even an adult (over a year of age) should never have playtime for more than 30 minutes. Playtime must be supervised. Chins are well known to chew anything they can reach so be sure the area is free from anything of danger. Many chins find playtime stressful since it goes against their natural den dwelling instincts. If your chin is darting around, fur slips, is hard to catch, or trying to hide; stop playtime and interact with your chin in its cage or by holding it. Chins get plenty of exercise in their cage. Offering playtime at any age, voids my health guarantee.
Wheels- Wheels are optional and should not be offered until your chin is at least a year old. A safe wheel must be at minimum of 14 inches for saucers or 15 inches for a vertical wheel. A smaller wheel with force the chin to move with an arched back. This will lead to injury and or premature arthritis. The surface must be solid, not mesh or plastic. The wheel should firmly attach to the cage; do not use a free-standing wheel. Chin spin, flying saucer, silver surfer, and tic tac wheels are all examples of safe wheels. If your chin loses weight or runs compulsively, then the wheel should be removed. DO NOT use a ball. Balls do not offer enough ventilation, are unsanitary, known to catch/break toes, causes unnatural movement (arched back), ext.
Activity- A common misconception is that chins are nocturnal but they are actually crepuscular. This means they are most active at dusk and dawn. You will likely see your chin sleep during parts of the day but they will adjust to your homes schedule. If you are consistent with when you interact with them, they will change their sleep patterns to match.
Taming and Handling Your Chinchilla
While chinchillas are considered domesticated, they are still small prey animals and you are a large predator. Your new chin may be fearful, jumpy or shy after bringing them home. As you handle your chin and the chin gets older, it will become calmer. Chins are usually full of energy and a bit crazy until 2 years of age, then they start to mellow out.
When handling your chin, be very gentle. They have tiny bones that are easily broken.
Chinchillas learn patterns well and will tame quickly if you are able so set aside a certain time each day to interact with them. Some chins will tame and settle in to a new home quickly and others can take a month or more. I advise waiting at least 2 weeks after bringing your chin home before starting to work with them. This allows them to learn the smells and sounds of your home and they will be more receptive to your attention.
Chinchillas do not often bite, but if your chin does bite you; do not react. Wear gloves and continue to handle your chin is usual. If the chin learns that biting gets it put back in the cage or left alone, that will only encourage the behavior more. Remember to never reward bad behavior. Grooming can be confused with biting. Grooming is small nibbles that sometimes pinch. You should be able to tell by the body language if the chin is biting or grooming.
If your chin gets loose, do not chase it. This simulates a predator chasing prey and will not only stress/scare your chin but will set back you’re taming as well. Many chins are easily caught using a dust bath, live animal trap or a small fish net.
Health
Over all chins are pretty hardy animals. If your chin has liquid diarrhea, is lethargic, loosing weight, having seizures, or drooling; those are symptoms that need to see a vet asap.
Fur chewing- Fur chewing is when a chin chews its own fur. This can be caused by genetics, stress, pain or learned behavior. Once a chin starts chewing, its very rare for it to stop even if the cause is removed. This does not affect the animal’s health.
Fungus/ringworm- This is a very common issue. Fungus is easily treated at home and is not harmful to your chin. It normally shows as red, flaking skin with hair loss. It often starts around the nose, ears or tail (areas where the hair is thinner). You can treat with blue kote or antifungal athletes foot powder in the dust bath. It can take 3 weeks of treatment before you see hair regrowing.
Malo- Unfortunately malocclusion is not treatable or able to be humanely maintained. Malo can be cause by a few things but genetics, injury or poor husbandry/nutrition are the most common.
Diarrhea- Soft poops can be caused by GI upset, parasites or other issues. If the poops are just soft but formed and normal color, you can offer burnt (completely burnt) toast or activated charcoal to help soothe the bowel. If the diarrhea persists 72+ hours, is liquid, bright green or has bubbles that means it may be time to see a vet.
Introducing Two Chinchillas
If you decide to get a buddy for your chin, please be sure to get the same sex. If you are interested in breeding, please be upfront since only limited animals that we sell are breeding quality. Spaying or neutering is not advised since its extremely risky and a high cost. It will not guarantee that a pairing will get along.
It’s advised to quarantine any new chin to your home for 30 days. This gives your chin to adjust to your home and will protect your animals should one be carrying a problem but not showing signs yet.
Please note that some chins will never get along with others so only get a second chin if you are ok with keeping another cage long term. I recommend pairing by smooshing (the only method I use). This method where you place both chins in a small carrier with no space to move or fight. A 30 minute car ride is advised. Leave them in the carrier for 4 hours. While they are in the carrier, thoroughly clean the cage and rearrange the accessories. This will prevent either chin from claiming the cage as their territory since it will be new to both of them. If you have a double ferret/critter nation cage, block off half until the chins have been together for a few weeks. I do offer carriers the proper size for this.
Please note that kacking, barking, humping and spraying is a normal part of pairing. Only separate if hair is being pulled, blood is drawn, or there is excessive chasing behavior.
Other Info
While we understand taking on a new addition can be a lot of work, we hope that you continue to update us on how your chinchilla is doing! Please keep in mind that if it ever occurs, we will welcome back any chinchilla if someone feels they can no longer care for them. We know this can be a difficult decision and we will certainly do our best to find your chin a new home. I hope you will be happy with your new chinchilla. If you ever have any questions, concerns or need anything relating to chinchillas please feel free to reach out.
Owning a chinchilla can be a lot of fun but owning a exotic pet is a huge learning experience. There is plenty of misinformation about chinchillas available on the internet. I am more than happy to help with any questions you might have on chins.
Chinchilla Care Packet
Thank you for getting your new chinchilla from BLS chins and guinea pigs. If you have any problems or questions along the way please feel free to reach out.
If for any reason you are no longer able to care for your chin, let us know. We are always willing to take in any chins (weather you got it from us or not).
Housing/cage set up
Temperature- Chinchillas need to be kept in temps 72 F or less. Anything warmer can lead to heat stroke which can quickly become deadly or have long term health effects. Air conditioning is a must if you have a chinchilla since fans do not cool them due to their thick fur.
Bedding-Kiln dried aspen or pine shavings are both safe to us in your chins cage. Fleece can also be used if other textures are used in the cage to prevent soft feet. Fleece bedding must also be changed frequently to prevent bacteria growth/odor. Carefresh and other paper beddings are not safe and are commonly known to cause blockages. Never use cedar bedding. The oil will cause skin irritation and eventually organ failure.
Water bottle- Since chins chew everything, I advise a glass water bottle. The bottle should be hung in the cage so that the chin can reach it to drink with all 4 feet on the floor. A water bowl is not advised since they are often spilled during your chin playing in the cage, or they become contaminated quickly with poop/shavings.
Food bowl- The best food bowls are chew proof. Ceramic is a good choice since its heavy, can not be chewed, can easily be cleaned and comes in a bunch of fun designs. Ceramic bowls should be placed low in the cage so they are not broken and don’t injure your chin should they tip it over. Another good option is a metal feeder. Coup cups are normally found in the bird section at most stores. J feeders is a third choice often found for rabbits.
Cage- A cage should be large enough for the chin to hop around comfortably. An all metal/wire cage is best. This allows for proper air flow, can be sanitized, and your chin can not chew out. The cage should be free of plastic (this includes the pan, shelves, ramp or other accessories). Plastic can cause major gut issues, blockages or even death. The minimum size for one chin is 18-24 inches high, 15-30 inches wide, and at least 12 inches deep. Anything larger is great but not necessary. Be aware that any fall 18 inches or higher may cause serious injury to your chin so accessories must be used to prevent any fall risks. The cage floor can be solid or wire mesh. Wire flooring that is ½ inch spacing or less is safe, just be sure to clean it as part of your routine. Your chins cage should be placed out of direct sunlight to reduce the chance of overheating. Please note that your chin can never be caged outside for any reason.
Cage accessories- Accessories must be made of safe materials. This means chin safe wood, fleece, metal or wire. Anything made with plywood, unknown wood type, paint, plastic, rope, or other cloth than fleece; are not safe to be used in your chins cage.
Feed
Pellets- Your chinchilla is currently being fed a bulk version of Oxbow essentials. This is commonly found at most pet stores. If you decide to switch to another pellet; mazuri, Sherwood, and Science Selective are all healthy options. A small bag of pellets will be sent along with your chin. This will allow you to mix to help change over to a new pellet. When changing feeds, you should mis 25% new pellets the first week, 50% new pellets the second week, 75 % the third week and all new pellets the 4th week. Most chins will adjust over just fine but if you notice any soft poops back up a step and proceed the switch a bit slower.
I do not advise using anything from the following brands-Kaytee, Vitakraft, Charlie chinchilla. They are known to make/sell unsafe items.
NEVER feed your chin nuts, seeds, fruits or veggies. These are high in natural sugars (even when they are dried) and fats. Both of which chins do not process well. The excess fats in the diet will lead to organ failure. Sugars in the diet can cause diabetes, bloat, diarrhea, stasis, and prolapse. Feeding fruits, nuts, seeds, veggies, ext will greatly shorten the life span. Your chin will thrive best on a bland diet of hay and pellets.
Hay- Hay comes in many safe types such as timothy, orchard grass, Bermuda and alfalfa. All of these are safe to give and are healthy for your chin. Oxbow or small pet selects are good brands that often have good quality. When looking for hay, you want it to be green/not brown, should have a slightly sweet smell to it, and be free from mold. Kaytee hay is often dyed to look green and is quite dusty. Hay should be plain with no herbs or treats added. Hay offers enrichment for your chin since they play with it as much as they eat. It also helps to wear down their teeth which is important due to their ever growing teeth. I advise offering a handful 1-2 times a week. Free or daily hay usually leads to the chin becoming bored and eating less. Hay cubes can also be used. I advise waiting until 6 months of age before offering hay as the small amount of sugars can still cause GI upset in sensitive individuals.
Water- Fresh clean water is important. Water bottles should be clean regularly to prevent bacteria. Any water that is safe for you is safe for your chin. I use reverse osmosis filtered water. Do not use distilled water. It removes all trace minerals that are needed for proper health.
Treats- Chinchillas 6 months of age and under cannot have treats of any kind. Most treats sold at pet stores are not safe, even if they are labeled for chins. I advise offering a more natural option for treats; herbs. There are a bunch of safe herbs that can be given safely. Remember that treats need to be given sparingly and in very limited quantities.
Care
Dust baths- Chinchillas need dust baths to clean their fur. The dust binds with the oils and dirt, removing them from your chin. Safe dusts include sweet pdz powder, chill dust and blue sparkle (sold under several names). Dust baths can be given 1-3 times a week as needed. Never bathe your chin with water. Their dense fur makes it very difficult for them to dry, can cause hypothermia, and will encourage fungal infections.
Chewing- Chinchillas are compulsive chewers so anything in their reach must be safe for them. Do not allow contact with electrical cords, plastic, paint, rope, chemicals, other pets, ext.
Exercise- Playtime is optional and should be offered only if it can be done safely. Playtime cannot be offered to chins 6 months of age or younger. They do not regulate body temp or blood sugars well until they mature. Even an adult (over a year of age) should never have playtime for more than 30 minutes. Playtime must be supervised. Chins are well known to chew anything they can reach so be sure the area is free from anything of danger. Many chins find playtime stressful since it goes against their natural den dwelling instincts. If your chin is darting around, fur slips, is hard to catch, or trying to hide; stop playtime and interact with your chin in its cage or by holding it. Chins get plenty of exercise in their cage. Offering playtime at any age, voids my health guarantee.
Wheels- Wheels are optional and should not be offered until your chin is at least a year old. A safe wheel must be at minimum of 14 inches for saucers or 15 inches for a vertical wheel. A smaller wheel with force the chin to move with an arched back. This will lead to injury and or premature arthritis. The surface must be solid, not mesh or plastic. The wheel should firmly attach to the cage; do not use a free-standing wheel. Chin spin, flying saucer, silver surfer, and tic tac wheels are all examples of safe wheels. If your chin loses weight or runs compulsively, then the wheel should be removed. DO NOT use a ball. Balls do not offer enough ventilation, are unsanitary, known to catch/break toes, causes unnatural movement (arched back), ext.
Activity- A common misconception is that chins are nocturnal but they are actually crepuscular. This means they are most active at dusk and dawn. You will likely see your chin sleep during parts of the day but they will adjust to your homes schedule. If you are consistent with when you interact with them, they will change their sleep patterns to match.
Taming and Handling Your Chinchilla
While chinchillas are considered domesticated, they are still small prey animals and you are a large predator. Your new chin may be fearful, jumpy or shy after bringing them home. As you handle your chin and the chin gets older, it will become calmer. Chins are usually full of energy and a bit crazy until 2 years of age, then they start to mellow out.
When handling your chin, be very gentle. They have tiny bones that are easily broken.
Chinchillas learn patterns well and will tame quickly if you are able so set aside a certain time each day to interact with them. Some chins will tame and settle in to a new home quickly and others can take a month or more. I advise waiting at least 2 weeks after bringing your chin home before starting to work with them. This allows them to learn the smells and sounds of your home and they will be more receptive to your attention.
Chinchillas do not often bite, but if your chin does bite you; do not react. Wear gloves and continue to handle your chin is usual. If the chin learns that biting gets it put back in the cage or left alone, that will only encourage the behavior more. Remember to never reward bad behavior. Grooming can be confused with biting. Grooming is small nibbles that sometimes pinch. You should be able to tell by the body language if the chin is biting or grooming.
If your chin gets loose, do not chase it. This simulates a predator chasing prey and will not only stress/scare your chin but will set back you’re taming as well. Many chins are easily caught using a dust bath, live animal trap or a small fish net.
Health
Over all chins are pretty hardy animals. If your chin has liquid diarrhea, is lethargic, loosing weight, having seizures, or drooling; those are symptoms that need to see a vet asap.
Fur chewing- Fur chewing is when a chin chews its own fur. This can be caused by genetics, stress, pain or learned behavior. Once a chin starts chewing, its very rare for it to stop even if the cause is removed. This does not affect the animal’s health.
Fungus/ringworm- This is a very common issue. Fungus is easily treated at home and is not harmful to your chin. It normally shows as red, flaking skin with hair loss. It often starts around the nose, ears or tail (areas where the hair is thinner). You can treat with blue kote or antifungal athletes foot powder in the dust bath. It can take 3 weeks of treatment before you see hair regrowing.
Malo- Unfortunately malocclusion is not treatable or able to be humanely maintained. Malo can be cause by a few things but genetics, injury or poor husbandry/nutrition are the most common.
Diarrhea- Soft poops can be caused by GI upset, parasites or other issues. If the poops are just soft but formed and normal color, you can offer burnt (completely burnt) toast or activated charcoal to help soothe the bowel. If the diarrhea persists 72+ hours, is liquid, bright green or has bubbles that means it may be time to see a vet.
Introducing Two Chinchillas
If you decide to get a buddy for your chin, please be sure to get the same sex. If you are interested in breeding, please be upfront since only limited animals that we sell are breeding quality. Spaying or neutering is not advised since its extremely risky and a high cost. It will not guarantee that a pairing will get along.
It’s advised to quarantine any new chin to your home for 30 days. This gives your chin to adjust to your home and will protect your animals should one be carrying a problem but not showing signs yet.
Please note that some chins will never get along with others so only get a second chin if you are ok with keeping another cage long term. I recommend pairing by smooshing (the only method I use). This method where you place both chins in a small carrier with no space to move or fight. A 30 minute car ride is advised. Leave them in the carrier for 4 hours. While they are in the carrier, thoroughly clean the cage and rearrange the accessories. This will prevent either chin from claiming the cage as their territory since it will be new to both of them. If you have a double ferret/critter nation cage, block off half until the chins have been together for a few weeks. I do offer carriers the proper size for this.
Please note that kacking, barking, humping and spraying is a normal part of pairing. Only separate if hair is being pulled, blood is drawn, or there is excessive chasing behavior.
Other Info
While we understand taking on a new addition can be a lot of work, we hope that you continue to update us on how your chinchilla is doing! Please keep in mind that if it ever occurs, we will welcome back any chinchilla if someone feels they can no longer care for them. We know this can be a difficult decision and we will certainly do our best to find your chin a new home. I hope you will be happy with your new chinchilla. If you ever have any questions, concerns or need anything relating to chinchillas please feel free to reach out.